A foodie tour of Corfu, with Greek tavernas and the best cheese ever

The MarBella Collection in Corfu is rebranding the all-inclusive as real luxury, discovers Julia Leyland

Imagine this: a plate of octopus is handed to you, still sizzling from the grill, its charred aroma mingling with the salty breeze of the Ionian Sea. In the elegant atmosphere of a professional kitchen – not the stressful type, rather one designed for tourists to visit – you raise your glass for a hearty “Yamas!” and clink glasses of crisp Greek white wine with newfound friends.

Yesterday, you indulged in goat ravioli, pesto ice cream, and savoured a barbecued oyster while watching the sun dip below the horizon from a rooftop perch. A casual lunch by the sea with a decadent wedge of feta, embraced by a juicy watermelon slice, offered a taste of Greek simplicity.

Read more: The best part of Corfu, with fewer tourists, incredible food and quiet beaches

Is this some kind of foodie wonderland? Welcome to the Mar-Bella Collection in Corfu, a family-owned group of five-star luxury hotels along the Cyan-coloured Ionian coastline. The flagship hotel, MarBella, is a palatial establishment featuring a sprawling complex of rooms, bungalows, restaurants, and pools. Next door, Nido offers a more intimate escape, an adults-only hotel that feels like stumbling upon a secret village where life moves at a relaxed pace, and the residents seem to be perpetually enjoying a siesta.

Both hotels grace the quiet southeastern shore of Corfu, with views extending to the Greek mainland and the Albanian Riviera to the north. Away from the popular Corfu Town, there is plenty of quality to discover across the island. The north-eastern shore of Corfu is another foodie hot spot, with justifiably expensive restaurants along pristine beaches, but back to the southern shore: this summer, the Mar-Bella Collection is hosting its fourth annual Greek Chefs Abroad, a series of pop-up dinners that spotlight renowned local cooks. The event is headlined by Georges Athanassopoulos, owner and head chef of Màloma in Brussels. Trained in France, Georges is celebrated for his innovative approach, combining fresh organic ingredients with Korean-inspired fermentation techniques.

The town feels like stepping onto a film set, with its narrow alleyways, bougainvillea-framed arches and bustling plazas selling lacey fans and evil eye trinkets

Despite his contemporary flair, Georges’ food remains rooted in Greek tradition, honoring his ancestral home. At Nido’s Appagio restaurant, he invites guests to experience a traditional Greek family dinner, complete with parsley churros, dippy eggs adorned with delicate purple flowers, and coral puff beignets. You may wonder, what exactly is a coral puff beignet? This baby donut filled with tarama and oscietra caviar is a dream to be devoured for those of us whose favourite food groups are seafood and baked goods (me).

The evening is not only a triumph for Georges but also for the hotel, showcasing their dedication to offering exceptional dining experiences. This commitment is at the heart of their identity as a premier luxury hotel with all-inclusive packages that emphasize fine dining and gastronomy, rather than unlimited chips by the poolside (which, don’t get me wrong, is also wonderful – and definitely possible).

MarBella stands out among all inclusive resorts, offering a culinary experience that rivals the best standalone restaurants. If anyone is serious about food, it’s them. Guests can choose from authentic Greek cuisine at Kuzina, exquisite French dishes at Celeste — don’t miss the niçoise salad with seared tuna — and the chance to “dine out” at a selection of local tavernas in cahoots with the hotel. There is also pan-Asian restaurant Kum Kuat, named after the small, sweet orange fruit beloved on the island. A local shop owner describes them as “sweet olives for those of us not quite grown-up enough to appreciate the real thing.”

Originally from China and introduced to the island in 1924, kumquats are now a staple in Corfu Town, where speciality shops offer them in every conceivable form: creamy liquor, fruit pastilles, and marmalades. Corfu’s history is steeped in Italian culture, due to Venetian rule from the 14th to the 18th century, which left an indelible mark on its architecture, cuisine, and cultural landscape.

According to our local guide, tourists arriving via cruise ship often mistakenly believe they’ve arrived in Italy. Corfu’s lush green landscapes and distinctive Venetian architecture contrast sharply with the iconic whitewashed walls and arid landscapes of the Cyclades they might expect. The town itself feels like stepping onto a film set, with its narrow alleyways, bougainvillea-framed arches and bustling plazas selling lacey fans and evil eye trinkets — reminding you that, indeed, you are in Greece.

Towering remnants of old city walls and moss-covered Venetian fortifications loom over the city, where hundreds of local traders and food artisans eagerly share their treasures: local spices, olive oils, and an array of fruit and cheeses. A fifteen-minute debate ensues as I contemplate which infused feta to bring home. In the end, I opt for the spearmint and regret not bringing an extra suitcase to stock up on these important supplies.

Greece boasts over 6,000 islands, so why Corfu? The Ionian waters surrounding the land mass are notably warmer and calmer than the Aegean. Although Corfu is a large island and slow to navigate by car, chartering a boat for the day is the best way to explore at your own pace. Nearby Paxos and Antipaxos are easily visitable and northern spots offer azure waters, hidden coves and caves.

The MarBella Collection has both a narrow, shallow beach and an expansive deck with steps leading right into 8-foot-deep waters. As beaches go, it is serene and unaffected by wind. You feel more like you’re on the edge of a warm, magical lake. In the early evening, the water is blue and golden. A final dip is the perfect way to end your day before getting ready to sample your next restaurant.

The notion that too much choice can become overwhelming is a familiar cultural dilemma. Increasingly, travelers turn to tailor-made itineraries to avoid the stress of decision-making. Yet at Marbella, the options — whether it’s where to relax, swim, or dine — makes the process of choosing feel enjoyable again.

So, as they say in Greece, “Stin Yeia Mas,” or put more simply, “Yamas!” Raise your glass and savor each bite, because believe me there will be many.

VISIT CORFU YOURSELF

Rates start from £277 for a double room at the Marbella Collection. z For more information visit the website at marbella.gr/hotels/marbella-corfu or call +30 26610 7240