Finding serenity in Zurich, Switzerland’s best Alps access point

Laurel Waldron finds serenity near Zurich, Switzerland’s hip city with easy access to the Alps With Zürich the gateway to Switzerland’s finest skiing, it would be remiss not to extend your weekend and embrace a night in its largest city. Rather than being stuck in the hustle and bustle of the centre, a 10 minute [...]

Nov 4, 2024 - 21:00

Finding serenity in Zurich, Switzerland’s best Alps access point

The Dolder Grand is a short drive outside of Zurich, with access to skiing

Laurel Waldron finds serenity near Zurich, Switzerland’s hip city with easy access to the Alps

With Zürich the gateway to Switzerland’s finest skiing, it would be remiss not to extend your weekend and embrace a night in its largest city. Rather than being stuck in the hustle and bustle of the centre, a 10 minute cab ride away you’ll be blessed with a fairytale stay with an alpine view and a two Michelin star menu.

One of Switzerland’s Grand Dame hotels, The Dolder Grand has held court over Zürich since 1899, sitting resplendent atop a hill with views down over Lake Zürich on one side and to the snow capped Alps on the other. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World and Swiss Deluxe Hotels, The Dolder Grand has maintained its cache thanks to extensive renovations, the latest in 2004 by London architects Foster & Partners.

It retains its Belle Époque glamour and has added contemporary touches in slick neon branding. Past guests include Winston Churchill and Albert Einstein to The Rolling Stones and King Charles III. The most luxurious of its 175 rooms and suites will set you back around five grand a night, but for that sort of money guests do have access to a selection of BMW cars to explore the city.

The perfect middle ground between the city and the slopes: The Dolder Grand near Zurich, Switzerland

We loved the Carezza Suite, inspired by the works of Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti and Suite 100, named after London’s 100 club, a favourite of the Stones. We stayed in one of the Junior Suites with modern whirlpool bathtubs contrasting with the heritage decadence, and homely touches like scented candles.

Gastronomically The Dolder Grand is one of Zürich’ s premier dining destinations. The all-day Saltz Restaurant serves a classic bistro menu, Mikuriya has Japanese Omakase, and al fresco restaurant Blooms is where to savour the afternoon if you’re blessed with winter sun.

Zurich: Switzerland’s cooler city, with Alps access

However, the simply-named ‘The Restaurant’ is the star of the show. Led by renowned Head Chef Heiko Nieder, the two Michelin star – among the highest ranked in the city – venue serves an exceptional menu of beautifully constructed, delicate creations that are almost too beautiful to eat From the eight course tasting menu we ate king crab and caviar with lamb’s lettuce, avocado and horseradish and fricasse guinea fowl with celery, Shio Koji and perigord truffle, Japanese pear, roasted soy beans, basil and matcha.

Ski-weary legs will be grateful for the 43,000 square foot relaxation area, designed by renowned master of spas, Sylvia Sepielli. The interiors are inspired by her time living in Japan. An 82 foot swimming pool, outside swimming area with views over Lake Zurich, Japanese-inspired Sunaburo baths filled with warm pebbles, and separate ladies’ and gentlemen’s saunas, steam baths, kotasu foot baths, aroma pools, steam pots, cold water basins and sunbeds, are all for the taking. You can retreat from socialising, close one of the many doors, and find a quiet far-away corner to cut yourself off from the world for a blissful few hours.

The mountaintop hotel is also home to an art collection that would rival the Tate Modern. It’s home to over 120 works from artists like Andy Warhol, Salvador Dali, Fernando Botero, Keith Haring and more, and guests can take a self-guided tour through corridors and across the grounds to appreciate pieces such as Warhol’s Big Retrospective Painting, spanning a huge 11 metres above the front desk.

While holing up in the hotel is very tempting when the snow starts to fall, Zürich comes alive during the festive season with some of the best Christmas markets in Switzerland. More than 10 separate markets light up the streets from 21 November through to Christmas Eve, with traditional handmade gifts, daily concerts and plenty of hearty food and drink including the ubiquitous fondue, as the scent of mulled wine and cinnamon wafts through the city.

Winter weekends are made for mooching around festive markets and cocooning in cosy robes. The Dolder Grand is a no brainer.

Visit Zurich yourself

Rooms at The Dolder Grand start from CHF 740 (around £653) per night, bed and breakfast; thedoldergrand.com. Flights to Zurich with SWISS from £ 72 one-way. Book at swiss.com.