Sake in London: Where to drink it, according to sommelier Natsuki Kikuya 

Working with the Wine and Spirit Education Trust as senior sake researcher, Natsuki Kikuya is also involved in promoting sake through campaigns, events and with Japanese government organisations.

What got you into sake?

My mum’s family ran a sake brewery in northern Japan called Akita for over 400 years. When my beloved grandfather got ill I wanted to learn about his sake, and fell in love with the diverse and elegant flavours of this category made all around Japan. Knowing the sake industry has been falling over the past 70 years, I wanted to help rebuild the industry from outside of Japan, which led me to move to UK 14 years ago. 

What makes it so special?

It’s the national alcohol beverage of Japan over 2,500 years, made purely with 4 natural ingredients native of Japan; rice, water, koji and yeast. It encompasses so much of Japanese culture, history, regions, and geography, and it works wonderfully with a wide range of food even outside of sushi or Japanese cuisines. 

What are the biggest challenges facing Sake in the uk?

The language barrier and a lack of knowledge and education for this category shared with both trade and consumers. I have been involved in WSET sake qualification for a decade, but we still need to increase awareness. 

What are you drinking at the moment?

As it’s getting quite chilly out, my choice of sake at moment is Takashimizu Kimoto Junmai heated to 55C to bring out the rich umami and warm up my body and soul.

Where is your favourite place in London for sake and why?

Bo-sen launge of Roketsu. There’s an amazing collection selected by Ryosuke Mashio. Together with sake from all over Japan, you can enjoy a la carte menu such as fatty tuna with egg York soy with truffle and Wagyu curry rice.

What is your favourite restaurant in London and why?

Sune Restaurant just opened last month by Honey Spencer and Charlie Sims. They have a wonderful selection of dishes and drinks. I love the energy of the space and their sake pairings.

Where is your favourite place for a late-night drink and why?

Sweeties at the Standard London. They offer a wonderful collection of cocktails by Zoe Burgess.